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Showing posts with label heat-sink. Show all posts
Showing posts with label heat-sink. Show all posts

Saturday, February 10, 2018

What's Inside an Old Humidifier

What's inside an old ultrasonic humidifier, and is there anything worth salvaging? The short answer is YES, lot's of fun stuff in there.

Someone donated this old ultrasonic humidifier for us to tear down. I hoped we could get the speed control and maybe a fan out if it. But I didn't know if everything would be on a single PCB and therefore difficult to salvage. Luckily, all the main components were separate and the PCB only supplied the power.

So we wound up getting a bunch of good components that we can re-use. We also got some nifty tidbits that will be good for prop building. Check out the short video to see what we found...





It looks like the humidifier had gotten hit with a power surge. But this thing was sturdy and it still sort of worked, if very weakly. There was almost no mist or air coming out of it. Once we cracked the case we could see why. The surge had run in and fried the AC components. It's surprising that it still worked at all, but it made it easy for us to decide to salvage it instead of repairing it.

We tested the salvaged components and they all worked fine. My two favorites are:
  • An all-in-one power switch with speed control and LED indicator complete with housing
  • And a magnetic reed switch type sensor along with a floating circular trigger magnet.
Both of these still worked perfectly. We also got some nice heat-sinks, some JST connectors, a small cage fan and several oddly shaped items perfect for use in cosplay or prop building,








Knob and Controls
The speed control is perfect for an Arduino project. It has three completely separate circuits going into the same housing to control three functions. There's a high current circuit to the on/off switch, a mid current to potentiometer, and a light-duty circuit to the LED.

I also noticed that they were using the potentiometer more like what I think as a rheostat. Even though the potentiometer has three tabs, they were only using two. But the tabs are accessible, so we can always add the traditional third line of the circuit.

With this configuration, you can turn the project on, then control an analog input with a single knob. The LED can be pulsed or blinked to give visual feedback.

And it's in a great housing that's really easy to mount into any project. It's circular and flat, so no weird shapes and curves to match. Just cut a hole, a big hole, into any enclosure and you have a very nice control panel - sweet!

Water Level Sensor
My other favorite find was the magnetic reed switch and magnet combo. This sensor is already on a slim PCB with a handy JST connector. And the floating ring-magnet is already sized to trigger the switch.

That's going to make using this as a water level sensor so much easier. These sensors and magnets are cheap to buy, but configuring them can be a hassle. When they come pre-matched and sold for use in fountains the price goes way up. So to get these for free was a pleasant surprise.

Overall, I'm very happy with the haul from this old humidifier. And the video was fun to make so I might start recording more teardowns. We have a room full of donated items, a huge random collection of semi-junk to tear apart and explore - loads of fun for the whole family - and much better than experimenting with items that still work.


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Wednesday, April 19, 2017

Party Light with EL-Wire

One of the easiest ways to add some "wow" to any lighting project - EL-wire is cheap and super simple to work with. This project adds some reflective panels courtesy of the fins from a gigantic aluminum heat-sink that I scavenged from a discarded stereo.

The spacing between the fins was perfect for the width of the EL-wire. And the polished metal surface gave a cool 3D effect to the project.



You can see the "wire" wrapped around the base in this photo, and notice how the light reflects all the way to the top because of the shininess of the metal.



The light carries all the way to the outside edge of the aluminum heat-sink. Usually, EL-wire projects are either flat or a 3D wireframe. But the heat-sink looks like a 4x4 cube and the way the light falls off and reflects adds to the three dimensional effect.

Also, the aluminum fins hide the EL-wire itself except for certain angles. So the look of the light changes as you move around it.





El-wire is very simple to install and run; just plug it and turn it on. You can find controllers of various power levels, everything from a coin cell, 1xAAA to 4xAA on up to 12v. The more power the controller is the more wire you can run and the brighter the glow is.

Most of the controllers have at least a few display modes (always on, slow blink, fast blink etc.) There are versions that react to sound. And Sparkfun has two versions that use Arduinos to create programmable displays with up to 8x different wires.






If you want to create your own party-light I would strongly suggest buying your supplies from either Sparkfun or from Adafruit. Both of these companies feature high quality, durable and very bright versions of EL-wire components. I have bought the cheap versions from other vendors. They do work, but they are always much dimmer and more fragile. If you want a dependable, brightly glowing version stick to the versions from Sparkfun or Adafruit - they are worth the extra cost in the long run.

Also check out my glowing pillow project on Instructables for more ideas about how to use EL-wire.

Or how about my 3d printed EL-wire bracelet for raves and festivals.